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Did you know that approximately 2,900 home cloth dryer fires are reported each year. Out of all the reported fire (34%) is due to failure to clean the dryer. You are at higher risks of having a clothes fire if you do not clean your lint filter and dryer vents. Here are some things you should consider and apply to minimize the occurrence of a dryer fire.

Dryer Vent Types

First, to have a safe dryer you need the correct type of dryer vent. Any dryer duct used should be 4" in diameter. There are 4 commonly found vents; which are:

1. Flexible Vinyl Duct

2. Rigid Metal Duct

3. Flexible Foil Duct

4. Semi Rigid Aluminum Duct (UL215A Listed)

However, the only two acceptable and safe ducts listed above, are the semi-rigid aluminum and rigid metal duct to sustain proper air flow and drying time. Although the other two ducts are sold in many common hardware stores, they can more easily trap lint and are more prone to damage. Additionally, be cautious in crushing or bending semi-rigid duct work when having it installed, as this can constrict the removal of lint.

Dryer Vent Duct Run

Selecting the correct dryer vent is the first step in having a safe dryer connection. What about the actual installation? Most building codes and manufacturers require a "straight" run of 25 - 35 ft. or less. However that does not apply if you are adding elbows or bends in the mix. For every elbow you apply a 5 ft. length reduction (i.e. 2 bends - max length should be reduced to 15 ft.). It is imperative you check the dryer manufacturers manual that comes with your specific dryer model. As an extra incentive, if you reduce the exhaust duct you will decrease the dryer times and overall energy cost, increase the dryer life, and accumulate lint less reducing potential fire hazard.

Dryer Vent Termination

Ensure you install a proper termination cover without a screen. Screens impede proper air flow. The dryer should terminate penetrating an exterior wall and NOT through a window. The three type of acceptable dryer vent hoods include, angled, box, and louvered.

Maintenance/Cleaning

It is absolutely important for you to clean out your dryer vent periodically (minimum of once) a year and always clean your lint tray before and after you use your dryer. Look behind the dryer and see if there is any lint building up on the floor. and clean that up as well. This may be a sign that the lint is escaping the dryer duct and you should inspect for any penetrations. Inspect the exterior hood of your dryer vent and ensure the exterior hood flap is functioning and not damaged.

If you notice your dryer is not fully drying clothes in full cycle this may be a sign that your exhaust is clogged and should be cleaned out. Remember, this will waste more gas/power and become detrimental on your dryer overtime (shortening lifespan).

Other Safety Tips

Here are some additional best practices:

1. Do not overload a dryer with wet clothes and do not leave a dryer running when you are not home.

2. Do not dry any items made of foam, rubber, or plastic, all of which can melt and cause a fire.

3. Do not place clothes or fabric soiled with a flammable substance, such as gasoline, cooking oils, grease, or oil, in a dryer.

4. If you have an electrical dryer; ensure it is plugged into an outlet suitable for its electrical needs (typically 220/240 V). A dryer should never be plugged into an extension cord.

5. If you have a gas dryer; ensure there are no gas leaks and connections are made tight.

6. Maintain 4 in clearance around the back of the dryer where the duct work terminates the dryer.

7. Booster fans are not recommended by most manufacturers, but should be used if duct is longer then 35 ft. for proper exhaust airflow.

8. You can higher professionals to inspect and clean out your dryer duct.

Summary

Ensure you are using the correct semi rigid or rigid duct work for your dryer (UL Listed 215A). It is recommended to keep the duct as short as possible with minimal to no bends if possible. Do not forget to clean the lint tray and periodically inspect and clean your dryer duct work. Inspect the full run and exterior portion of the dryer duct. If you notice your dryer acting funny or taking longer to dry cloth then this is a sign there is something wrong. As with everything apply common sense and better to be safe then sorry.

Introduction:

Radon is a cancer-causing, radioactive gas that is released in rock, soil, and water. You can’t see radon and you can’t smell it or taste it. It comes from the natural decay of uranium that is found in nearly all soils. It typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other penetrations in the foundation. Any home may have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements.

When is Radon a Problem:

The average indoor radon level is estimated to be about 1.3 pCi/L, and about 0.4 pCi/L of radon is normally found in the outside air. Fix your home if your radon level is confirmed to be 4 pCi/L or higher. Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases, may be reduced. If you get a radon test conducted with Outlet Home Inspections, your inspector will instruct you the level measured and whether to get the house fixed or not.

How to Reduce Radon:

EPA recommends that you use a certified or qualified radon mitigation contractor trained to fix radon problems. There are several methods a contractor can use to lower radon levels in your home. One of the more popular and effective methods include active sub-slab suction. It involves one or more suction pipes inserted through the floor slab into the crushed rock or soil underneath. For further information refer to the EPA Link #5 noted below. Furthermore, refer to the other links to learn more about Radon.

Literature/Resources:

1. https://www.epa.gov/radon

2. https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2016-12/documents/2016_a_citizens_guide_to_radon.pdf

3. https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2015-05/documents/hmbuygud.pdf

4. https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2016-12/documents/2016_consumers_guide_to_radon_reduction.pdf

It’s no secret that purchasing a home may be one of the most stressful and biggest investments you will be making in your life. Purchasing a home in a flood zone adds even more stress to the process. Theoretically it is up to the seller to inform you if his or her house are within a flood zone. A qualified and experienced buyer’s agent should also be able to confirm if the house is in a flood zone.

Accessing FEMA Flood Maps

As a home buyer you should double check if you are in a flood zone. Good news, this can be done simply and for FREE online. You should refer to the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) MSC website to check if your home is in a flood zone. Once you are on the website, simply type in your address and hit the search button. The FEMA website will provide you with a Flood Insurance Rate Map (FIRM) and a link to their interactive map.

Another option is to download a copy of the associated FIRM you are searching for and zooming in to identify your home and corresponding street. It can be a bit of a tedious process to zoom in and properly identify your home. Thus, it may be easier and quicker to use the FEMA National Flood Hazard Layer (NFHL) to identify if your home in within a flood zone.

Refer to the legend in the adjacent column to identify the flood hazard boundary zones and what each overlay means. Understanding the flood hazard zones is a bit extensive and will be covered in a different blog post. The one of interest is usually the 100-yr. flood hazard zone (1% Annual Chance Flood Hazard or BFE). This will be depicted with a light blue shade and will have a flood zone designation such as (A, AE, AH, AO, etc.).

Play Investigator, ask Questions?

Once you confirm the house is in fact in a flood zone, you should proceed cautiously and gather more information from the seller and real estate agent. Here are some of the questions you should ask:

• Has the house ever been flooded? In the basement, crawlspace, or ground level?

• If the house has not been flooded, has the adjacent street ever flooded?

• If the house has flooded in the past, approximately how much water entered the house?

• How did the water enter the house? In the basement, crawl space, ground floor?

• What was damaged? What remediation efforts were taken?

• Was the house insured at the time of flooding? How much does the seller pay for flood insurance (if applicable)?

You should also request and review the following:

• Sellers Disclosure Agreement

• Elevation Certificate (this will give you elevations of the home with respect to flood zone datum’s)

How a Home Inspector may fit in?

Home Inspectors are generalists, we evaluate what we can visually see. A typical home inspector will not look up if your home is in a flood zone. Chances are the home inspector will not be informed that the house has been in a flood zone and/or flooded in the past. They may get lucky and get a copy of the disclosure agreement stating the house is in a flood zone (rare). But there can be many clues that a house has flooded (water intrusion) in the past and an experienced home inspector will identify them, specifically in lower levels (i.e. basement, crawl space). Here are some signs of past flooding or major water intrusion:

• Signs of rot, excessive rust, or efflorescence

• Mold/mildew odors.

• Continuously operating a dehumidifier in the lower level

• Presence of a sump pump with a spare pump and/or auxiliary supply battery.

• High water level stains in the sump pump pit.

• A sump pump that is continuously working.

• Wall cracks, water stains, or peeling of paint (finished basement).

• Wet/damp insulation on perimeter.

• Water stains on hardwood floor and lower level floor joists. Ground level may have flooded.

• Downspouts dumping water right next to basement window or adjacent to foundation wall, there is more a chance of water getting into the lower level.

Conclusion:

You should always do your homework and ask the seller and sales agent if the house is within a flood zone and if it has flooded in the past. Also take matters in your own hand and refer to the FEMA website to double check. If you confirm the house is within a flood zone carefully review the seller’s disclosure agreement and ask more specific questions (as listed above). Request for the elevation certificate (if applicable) or you may want to hire a licensed surveyor to complete one.

Consult and get advice from the lender, insurer, and real estate attorney as well. If you decide to move forward with the real estate transaction, advise your home inspector that the house is in a flood zone. Providing a copy of the disclosure agreement also helps the home inspector gather some critical information. Make sure you are present during the home inspection as he/she should be looking for any water/moisture issues, specifically in the lower levels of the home.

Finally review the findings of the home inspection report and ensure your attorney receives a copy. You want to cover all possible angles as you do not want any surprises to occur later.